Though this is a food blog, I would be remiss if I didn’t write about something that usually follows or precedes food for a lot of Egyptian men (not a lot of women smoke): the sheesha. Every ahwa (coffeehouse) offers water pipes with at least one or two types of tobacco, usually more. The bubbling can sometimes be heard from the table over, but conversation usually covers it. It isn’t the healthiest habit – supposedly one hour-long session delivers as much tar as smoking a pack of cigarettes – but when has that ever stopped something enjoyable?


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